Surface Gravity Waves and Wave Boundary Layers

TR 1:30-3:00

211 OTB

 

Jeff Parsons

email: parsons@ocean.washington.edu

phone: (206) 221-6627

office: 111A MSB

 

 

COURSE CONTENT:

 

Course introduction (Apr 2)

Wave theory

A.     Linear (Airy) wave theory (Apr 4, 9) (Currie, Chapter 6; Lighthill, Chapter 3.6)

B.     Higher-order (Stokes) solutions (Apr 9) (Komar, Chapter 5; Drazin and Johnson, Chapter 1)

C.     Stokes drift (April 11) (Longuet-Higgins, 1953; Phillips, 2001; among others)

D.     Wind-wave interactions, processes and models (Apr 11, 16) (Massel, Chapter 6; Donelan et al., 1985)

Coastal wave dynamics

A.     Wave transformation and propagation (Apr 18) (Komar, Chapter 5)

B.     Radiation stress theory (Apr 23, 25) (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964)

C.     Wave set-up and set-down, edge waves, rip currents (Apr 25, 30) (Komar, Chapter 6 & 8)

D.     Longshore currents (May 2) (Komar, Chapter 8)

E.      Longshore appendix

Oscillatory boundary layers and sediment transport

A.     Wave boundary layers (May 7, 9) (Madsen course notes; Mei, Chapter 8 & 9)

B.     Wave boundary layer appendix

C.     Combined-flow (wave-current) boundary layers (May 9, 14) (Madsen course notes)

D.     Incipient motion and transport relations (May 16, 21) (Madsen course notes; OCEAN 542 course notes; Komar, Chapter 7, 9)

E.      Bedforms (May 23, 30) (Komar, Chapter 7, 9, 11)

 

 

GRADING:

 

45% 3 Homework Sets

            Homework 1 – Due April 23

            Homework 2 – Due May 13

            Homework 3 – Due May 29

50% Final Exam – June 6 (1:30-3:30)

5% Class Participation

 

Late policy:  2% docked every business-day (a day ends at 6pm) past the due date.

 

 

Textbook:

 

Komar, P. D. 1998.  Beach processes and sedimentation. 2nd Edition. Prentice-Hall.

 

 

OTHER USEFUL references:

 

Massel, S. R.  1989.  Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones. Elsevier Oceanography Series.

Batchelor, G. K.  1968.  Fluid Dynamics.  Cambridge University Press.

Lamb, H.  1932.  Hydrodynamics.  Dover Publications.

Graf, W. H.  1971.  Hydraulics of Sediment Transport.  McGraw-Hill.

Currie, I. G. 1993. Fundamental Mechanics of Fluids. 2nd Edition. McGraw-Hill.

Drazin, P. G. and Johnson, R. S. 1989. Solitons: An Introduction. Cambridge University Press.

Lighthill, J. 1978. Waves in Fluids. Cambridge University Press.

Mei, C. C. 1983. The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. John Wiley & Sons.